Australia, Argentina · 21 Days · 54 Moments · June 2017

Our family journi to Argentina

15 July 2017

Coming home!

14 July 2017

Our last Airbnb in Buenos Aires. Small, cute, colorful, comfortable, quiet, central great shower - very happy!
Guida oga animal sanctuary - fabulous!

11 July 2017

Our beautiful airbnb in puerto Iguazu - right near the bus station, very modern and clean and well equipped with new appliances. Only trouble was wi-fi which didn't work for the first 48 hours.

9 July 2017

Today was exploring the enormous parklands. It's Sunday and Independence Day holiday so very quiet out and lots of things are closed. Parks are great with lots of play and exercise equipment, a zoo, a huge pool (empty for winter) a lake lots of restaurants and street vendors and a fun fair. We found an awesome choripan vendor - so delicious! And a great churro place that filled them with dulcet de leche. Amazing.

8 July 2017

After a few hours of siesta, we went back out there for a fabulous artesian market, a great indigenous crafts museum and lively city area with a water/light show. Tried a new local brown food - rehellos - very tasty fillings squashed in bread. Now we're getting ready for bed with the sounds of tango from the main square and the cathedral bells tolling.
Paseo del Buen Pastor This is a entertainment district now but onthe site of an incredible building that has had many uses including a female prison in the dictatorship. We happened upon a boys choral concert in the incredible chapel, the walked around the corner and happened upon the most amazing cathedral. The exterior was extraordinary, we couldn't see the interior as there was a mass in progress. We'll go back. Then we saw the light and water show - cute as was the people's dog dog watching from our high vantage point - including people having their wedding photos taken with the fountain lights as the backdrop.
MIA Museo Iberoamericano Artes This was right next to the enormous artesian market and a small beautifully presented and varied exhibition of contemporary Latin American crafts, many based on traditional methods and subjects.
Feria Artesanal A beautiful craft market we visited- very lively and full of locals, with music, dancing and all sorts of interesting crafts for sale. The atmosphere was really comfortable, with no pressure to buy things and plenty of stall holders chatting to each other, drinking matè and buying empanadas from other sellers walking around to them. We ended up getting pastries for dinner- mine was filled with olive- which were filling, tasty and very cheap 😊 Similar to the food markets- it was interesting how relatively cheap market things were, such as fancy handmade leather wallets for around $20, compared to the actual stores (which are priced quite similarly to Australia) (Mia)
An artisan food market we looked around. These are all alfajores- they take them very seriously!! Cordobese ones are a regional variety dipped in a lemony glaze. The thing I found most interesting was the pricing- things here were substantially cheaper than at a supermarket, even though they were fancy and high quality and homemade. I don't really know why- sellers are setting their own prices, and people are very enthusiastic about this artisan food scene (the market was thronging with locals, as have all the others we've passed)- so it doesn't seem to be due to lack of demand (mia)
Museo Emilio Caraffa An amazing modern gallery of contemporary art. Five exhibitions appeared. Some fascinating, some fabulous, some less to my taste. (Nic)
Museo Palacio Dionisi. Photographic gallery in another incredible building. A few exhibitions in - one on 100 years of women's work in Argentina, a great jazz musician exhibit and one of Cusco and its people.
Museo do Bellas Artes Palacio Ferreyra (Evita Art Museum) in a gorgeous building, beautifully maintained and presented range of Argentinian Fine Arts.
A great day in 2 parts- In the morning we walked through parks and a farmers market and three fabulous art galleries.

7 July 2017

Our first tostadas (the ham and cheese toasty with three layers of thin white bread you see everywhere) and then cordobas version of alfajore which is delicious. Coated in sugar syrup. We used those as a treat with a cuppa after packing!
Walking around Cordoba and the first of many incredible art museums in stunning old houses - Genero Perez
Main square of cordoba with the stunning cathedral and the cabillo (colonial town hall)

6 July 2017

Relaxed morning packing and French toast, then calm drive to airport, car return and now flying to Córdoba.

5 July 2017

A fabulous dinner out at Restaurante Vegetariano with lovely food, atmosphere and chef. Straight away we were brought a gorgeous carrot and garlic paste with bread. Then offered entree of soup (pumpkin or squash) or salad. Mia and I had squash soup, ian and Eva had pumpkin soup. Drinks were a lovely red wine, mineral water and fresh juices - eva had an amazing orange and raspberry juice. Then main of a shared plate (could choose to include fish or not) we had trout in a lemon sauce, a lovely ravioli, carrots, a rice salad, a creamy spinach pie and a filled pancake. It was all delicious! For dessert we shared tiramisu and an apple pudding-like dessert. There was a little fruity green tea to finish. It was all delicious in a warm, pretty, half full restaurant with very friendly service in English and lovely music. We were all relaxed and happy - it was a great night!
In the cold rainy afternoon (having had a siesta) we visited the Havana chocolate museum. Sadly we missed the one daily tour in English so we did one entirely in Spanish. We learnt a tiny bit, but got great hot chocolate, saw amazing chocolate sculptures and got some 'free' chocolates at the end.
Wednesday 5th of July we visited the main ski village - Cerro Catedral. There is not much snow at the moment) but our main focus was submarino hot chocolates! We had a good walk around - our jeans made us the targets of many ski clothing touts. We explored a cable car ride but at about $200 and with an uncertain wait we decided against it.

4 July 2017

Beautiful sunset drive back to our comfortable home and made pizzas for dinner.
Then another 1/2 hour to Lago Puelo - a beautiful lake. Here we had a picnic at the port, skimmed stones at the beach and went on a boat tour. (Nic) Lago Puelo A beautiful lake that borders Argentina and Chile! Incredibly clear, blue waters and mountain views. The vista was so changeable as clouds came and went but overall we got incredibly lucky with the weather. It was absolutely breathtaking! We went out on a little boat because a kind 'Guia de Pescados' who ran tours let us come even though we were slightly short on pesos. The trip was lovely- a very small boat and lots of gesturing/pausing as we tried to communicate across the language barrier (with reasonable success I'd say!) (mia)
Tuesday was an incredibly scenic road trip. We drove 2 hours from Bariloche to el Bokson where we stopped at great markets and a cosy library.

3 July 2017

Beautiful drive around circuito chico with stops for a little lake walk, a bigger forest walk, several lookouts including one with fabulous hot chocolate and one with an awesome sausage sandwich and a final stop at the fancy hotel llao llao to sticky beak. Then some groceries and lunch and a relax at home.

2 July 2017

Sunsets and sunrises and daytime views were so amazing from our accommodation we took so many photos!
Our gorgeous, warm and comfortable hill house in Bariloche with the most incredible views!
Our comfortable and stylish car!
Going to Bariloche today. Waiting to take-off, there seem to be delays but all announcements in Spanish. Was an 8.25 flight, then last night it was delayed to 10.30. We boarded about 10.30, but now 10.52am. The trip here was a bit tricky, we were briefly locked in the foyer and then only of our Uber's came. Ended up cutting it fine with checking in luggage - but once at airport all was smooth and no problem. Looks like we may soon take-off - up to safety instructions.

1 July 2017

We visited the pink house - casa rosada to do the english tour. We just made it by 2.30 - we had an online booking. Apparently google maps assumes a jog, not a walk and doesn't allow for waiting at lights!? When we got there they wouldn't let us through, but through some strange process involving many guards we did get through, but missed the beginning of the tour. It was a beautiful building. And interesting tidbits of history. Being on the verandah where presidents and Evita have addressed great crowds was pretty cool. After this we attempted to change money but through a series of disagreements and bad luck walked a million miles and got progressively more stressed! Ended up finally at home with no money but lots of pastries!!
Second visit to the fine arts museum to see the remaining floor which was mostly Argentinian Art but arranged in the art movements of the world e.g. An op art room and an impressionist room. Some great things and interesting perspectives. On the way there we passed a great weekly produce market. The fruit and veg looked great - and much cheaper than the supermarkets! The top floor had lovely views of the law faculty and floralis generalis. Next we went to an empanada place mia found called sanjuanito. Got there for midday opening as it gets busy and had delicious empanadas and our first fried ones. Yum.
Parc Ecologic nature reserve/jogging track,
and then Puerto Madera which is apparently based on darling harbour which are the first glass and metal high rise we've seen.

30 June 2017

Friday in BA. Carminito - the colourful area that often features in pictures of BA - but so touristy and uncomfortably complex when you arrive by public bus and see how people are living around it. Then the extreme contrast of Port Madera, reportedly modelled on Darling Harbour and its wealth and up-market shops, a long walk in Parc Ecologic and finally the incredible National Gallery de belle Artes - breathtaking - we'll go back to do the second floor tomorrow. (Nic)
A day of extreme contrasts. We got a public bus 🚌 through some much poorer neighborhoods which was confronting on the way to Caminita, the very colourful touristy area,

29 June 2017

Bit of a flatter day - exhaustion and things just seemed a bit harder - like finding an affordable lunch - but in the end saw three interesting places - the Recolecta Cemetary - a city of elaborate mausoleums including that of Eva Peron, a gallery called the Palais de Glacé- (think ian and Eva were looking for ice cream) but it had an exhibition of an annual art prize and was great and finally the national library - an incredible, yet ugly, brutalist building with interesting exhibitions (in Spanish) and amazing views. (Nic)

28 June 2017

Wednesday in BA - highlights include beautiful gardens and parks, successful public transporting in Spanish, a picnic with geese, MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art), great ice cream, incredible sculptures everywhere and a real parrilla grill dinner (with lots of vegies!) (Nic)
and a real parrilla dinner at the cool Bar Altantica. So jet-lagged though - not sure why it's getting worse on day 3 but afternoons are tough and we're all up by 6am when most things open at midday!
the poets rose garden complete with geese to closely oversee picnics
the law faculty of the university and more incredible buildings.
the beautiful Floralis Genéralica - giant silver flower sculpture,
MALBA is a Fantastic museum of modern art from South America museum MALBA. Varied collection arranged in themes of the experience of living in South America through colonization, revolution, modernization and hardships. Some great pieces, some weird ones. All in English and Spanish. Famously has a Frida Kahlo. Managed to go on Wednesday which is free for students and only $5 each for us. (Nic)
Successfully caught a bus!! To Palermo which looks like a district full of parks on the map. Bus stop was at the Japanese garden. Beautiful, slightly odd kind of expo of all things Japanese, lovely walk and more open space than we've seen for days. (Nic)

27 June 2017

Day 2 highlights - the incredible 2nd best bookshop in the world (apparently), BA's best pizza, the senate and democracy museum, a tour of the beautiful palacio barolo including standing in the 'lighthouse' on top with an incredible, panoramic (though terrifying) view of the city, an actual espresso (not filter coffee) and a glimpse of the court bulidings and teatro colona before heading home and eating fast to avoid falling asleep in meal - thought we'd tricked jet lag but apparently we didn't! (Nic)

26 June 2017

Day 1 Buenos Aires. Walked 20km soaking up amazing buildings, tasty food (though very sweet), tango, bustling streets, markets, many dogs, street art, a large protest march and bright warm sunshine. (Nic)
San Telmo The oldest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. A fascinating mix of markets, street art + window displays of incredible antique shops- an intersection of some slightly 'hipster' modern influences with well-trodden cobblestone streets. We happened upon some live tango in a town square - complete with intermissions for the dancers to drink mate (an incredibly popular tea here, shared with friends outdoors from a hollowed out gourd through a special filtered straw) We also managed to get some much needed fruit and veg for the week at Mercado San Telmo, which was quiet today but is apparently overrun on Sundays, and visit 'La casa del Dulce de Leche' where we had our first taste of real Argentinian Dulce de Leche (which is apparently totally different to what you find in Australia) (Mia)
El nosotros desayuno primero de pasteles e medialunes (literally half moons- croissants) con café a un cafetería pequeño en nuestra calla. ¡Mmmm! (Our first breakfast of pastries and croissants with coffee at a small cafe on our street. Yum!)(Mia)
Quite the journey- a little over 24 hours! (Although we left on Sunday morning and arrived Sunday evening + watched the same sunset on two continents?! Timezones are a confusing wonder) Our first impression was of how busy the city was- driving through 20(!!) lane each way traffic on the way back from the airport was pretty full on, crossings seemed to be more of a suggestion than a rule, and the streets were full of people. I would've loved to have taken in more of the ride but after very little plane sleep I was having a little trouble keeping my eyes open- but there'll be time to explore that later! (Mia)

25 June 2017

So here we are in Buenos Aires! We went through immigration and had our thumbs scanned then collected our bags. Mia's bag had a big dent in the side where it must have smashed against something, fortunately we could pop it out, thank goodness there was nothing breakable inside. We collected a SIM card for the phone then pre-paid a taxi to or apartment in Recoleta. The international airport is a long way from the city so it took a while a hot and stuffy taxi. Both Mia and Eva fell asleep. Finally we arrived and we're met by Paloma who showed us up to a very comfy first floor apartment with a balcony to the street. This will be a great base from which to explore the city. So as not to fall asleep straight away (about 7pm by now) we went for a walk and discovered where the famous Recoleta Cemetery is and found a shopping centre where we shared some food at an American style diner. Then back to the apartment to finally sleep. (Ian)
In transit! 24 hours door-to-door. Arrived to a surprisingly balmy 23C at 7pm to our very comfortable apartment in Buenos Aires. (Nic)
Our comfortable and convenient Air Bnb in Recoleta.
Flight number 2 - the big one from Auckland to Buenos Aires - about 12 hours and pretty tough. We had 3 seats in the middle and Nic on the aisle across the walkway. Ian and the kids slept a few hours but we were all pretty exhausted by the end. (Ian)
Flight number 1 - Sydney to Auckland! We were pleasantly surprised that we had been allocated front row with lots of leg room. Easy flight - 4 across the middle.(Ian)

25 June 2017

On the way to the airport. Happy. Sad. Excited.(Nic)