United Kingdom, Spain · 46 Days · 389 Moments · August 2017

Maureen's pilgrimage through Spain


5 October 2017

Mike and Tonymet us for a tour of the Parador
Emery's shoe selection
Botafumeiro in Santiago Cathedral
Creepy cherubs

4 October 2017

The Parador Hotel 1492. Originally intended for pilgrims😊
Cathedral de Santiago getting it's facelift
Entering the old city of Santiago!
Walked into Santiago from Monte do Gozo this morning 🤸‍♂️🤸‍♂️🤸‍♂️💃! Spires in the background

3 October 2017

A natural hill on Monte do Gozo from where the Cathedral is first seen.
OK pilgrims step aside 😜
Spires to the left of the pilgrim statues
The Cathedral spires from Monte do Gonzo
It is unusually dry and warm in Galicia. The farmers are plowing in the dust. Usually it is raining- storms coming down off the Bay of Biscay. Even the hydrangeas are drooping. Great weather for pilgrims, though😊
The ugly monument 🤔
Finding the Albergue de Monte do Gozo took lots of searching. A bit like army barracks😳
The closer we get to Santiago the more pilgrims we meet. All Cominos converge in Santiago. Tomorrow we walk into Santiago 🤗🇨🇦👏🏻
The stream at Lavacolla, which means to wash your privates. A place for ancient pilgrims to cleanse before presenting themselves to St James, who is thought to be buried in the ossuary under the Cathedral.
In Monte do Gozo.

2 October 2017

In Salceda. It's hot-27' 😊
Scallops- Galecian style. I have never tasted scallops ever as good as these!!😋
A Galecian horreo just before Salceda
Goat squash or?
Eucalyptus
On the way to Monte de Gonzo
A spider web in the mist
Another beautiful day!!
Cervesa delivery! (Slide!)

1 October 2017

Tonight's sunset
Our albergue here in Ribadiso
Rio Eso
Fall in Galecia.
The bottlebrush plant
The Horreos in Galicia are rectangular! This one is outside our albergue. Wouldn't it make a fun playhouse!!
A cool indoor oven at the albergue
In Ribadiso
Another misty morning in Galatia. It is Sunday( Domingo). The first day of October. Reminiscing this morning as I sit in a friendly cafe awaiting the bus to the Camino outside of Ribadiso. The journey's end is bittersweet 🍂 The thoughts and stories seem endless. So many faces and languages. There is sadness in leaving Spain because I have grown to like it so much!!! BUT I miss everyone at home and can hardly wait to see you all. I believe dad and I are both weary of being apart💞and it's not just about the workload. Fall on the Camino poses one extra hazard. The acorns, filberts, and chestnuts are falling and they HURT!! I haven't seen 1 squirrel🤔

30 September 2017

Where the Camino Primitivo and the Camino Frances meet!
Melide-Already the last day of September!
Today's destination is Melide. Quite misty this morning. I'll cab this one and meet Charlotte part way. 27 km.

29 September 2017

Check out this room key
Our room in Candida Albergue. Turquoise is suppose to deter flies from landing! Wonderful to FaceTime with Ellie and Brayden from here❤️ Took evening photos here at San Roman.
Lugo's old Roman bridge
Ah! A schoolyard. Students playing Spain's favourite sports!
Leaving Lugo after walking the old Roman wall

28 September 2017

Ancient Roman baths beneath the plaza
An ancient Magnolia
The Camino travels through the old city
Wow that bus ride felt fast!! In Lego's old city inside Roman walls!
The Lugo Cathedral
Look 👀 Levi a froggy fountain
Leaving Baleira this morning by bus 🚌 Taking a break from a 30 km grind😊

27 September 2017

Charlotte at her finest!
A Pilgrim hospital built in 1760.
These little crocuses have greeted us the entire way -
Leaving A Fonsagrada

26 September 2017

A Fonsagrada is today's place of rest🙂 Morning fog broke through into beautiful afternoon sun. Tough grind- lots of climbs. My feet were happy to have a cotton sock change! Crossed over from Asturias to Galicia.25.57km
Above the fog
The windmills
Morning dew

25 September 2017

The original town before the dam
Monasterial ruins.
In Grandes de Saline. 21km Weather is great! Man made lake creates a large reservoir.

24 September 2017

After a 28 km mountain hike we made it to Berducedo. Absolutely beautiful views but a 9 hour hike in up and down terrain.😜
Monasterial ruins
Happy mama
Happy hiker. Somewhere in the background are wild horses 🐴
Isaiah 40:31 The eagle in the sunrise!

23 September 2017

At the albergue!
Leaving Tineo presented clear skies and warm temperatures. Albergue locations dictate distances we are able to travel in the mountains. Northern Spain is lush beautiful farm country. As we were resting at a little picnic table on the path through Villaluz a dairy farmer came along and asked if we would like a stamp for our credentials. He led us into the barns right beside the bulk tank. He milks 31 Holsteins 🐄😊We will stay the night here at Campeiello.
The dairy
We gave the horses some apples 🍎
A new morning

22 September 2017

Heavy rain in the night turned into a light rain this morning. Mist and mud made walking interesting and blocked views. Most of the way we dodged very large puddles!! As Charlotte resorted to walking straight through the middle of a 6" deep massive puddle(no photo), an approaching tractor stopped and a very kind farmer offered me a lift cautioning me to be careful of the wheel. I was so thrilled 😁 Safely at a very comfortable albergue in Tineo we have settled.
The clouds break
Way down the path you will see Charlotte and I muddied up!!
Father Mike and son,Tony have been walking this route and conversing lots with us.
Some of the smaller puddles
The rescue tractor

21 September 2017

Salas
Horreos
Once a church now a barn
Salas! Before the rain ☔️ A beautiful 23 km walk on the Camino Primitivo! The misty morning

20 September 2017

Today the Camino Primitivo begins. A beautiful sunny day so we pushed ahead into Grado. Now booked into an albergue and having some dinner in the local restaurant.
Collection of today's horreos
The Eucalyptus trees tower above all others! They are a bit messy, like arbutus, and very flammable. It smells a bit like Vick's Vapo Rub when amongst them and when strong like varnish!
Astrurius is known for horreos. Some have been incorporated into the house.
A couple more!!
Good morning mamas!!

19 September 2017

San Julian de Los Prados
San Julian de Los Prados
San Julian de Los Prados

18 September 2017

Fiesta all night long💃💃💃
Olviedo' Cathedral has a singular spire apparently a money issue?
Sidra
Today's progress! Safely in Olviedo. A whole new countryside and the culture of Asturias is also new! I wish Heather could be here to experience the pouring of the Sidra! Cider at its best! Better than scrumpy😊
A lemon 🍋😊
The bridge without a river and its village wall
Public wash house
Ohh for that chocolate fleece!

17 September 2017

The pourer of the cider, famous Asturias cider! It makes for sticky sidewalks😳
The way to Mieres -25 km
Santa Cristina

16 September 2017

The day begins
Our albergue for the night in Bendienos. A bit chilly but so cool! Climbing and descending 15 km to get here but so worth it!!
And what a view!!
Warmed seats in winter😊
Inside the albergue
Moisture made for muddy paths!
As the rain held off the mountain views were beautiful!
These stilted structures, horreos,appear in many of the mountain farming villages and were used to store grain etc. to keep it away from rodents.
Shoes anyone? These don't get sucked off in the mud!!
Leaving Payares

15 September 2017

Mmmm chicken cutlets - reminded me of Val💞
Late lunch yesterday, thanks to Marisa the albergue's hospitalera.
We are in Payares in Asturias! Not so many photos today we came through a raging windstorm and rain in the mountains. So beautiful but harsh and made for a slippery climb and descent!
On the albergue stairwell
The coming rain!

14 September 2017

Wow we made it!! What's beautiful day of hiking!! Hard but beautiful😳We are sitting at the albergue with peregrinos. They are so kind and accepting!! They try to understand me!! Lots of laughs! We are in Poladura de la Tercia!!
In the albergue my bed became the gathering place. Ican't wait to climb in😴
The wild horses 💞
More!
Today's way. Please slide to see!
The mountains approach
We stopped at a cafe on the way. This is for you Doug. 2 photos- slide on the first
For Gary
Passing through a mountain village
Starting out!

13 September 2017

La Robla
La perigrina
Heather😊
The climb begins
The dog keeping the goats in order as we pass!
Leaving Leon on the Camino de La Salvador our 7 day journey through the mountains.

12 September 2017

In Leon!! From here we start the El Comino de San Salvador through the Cordillera Cantabrica. The cathedral here in Leon is an amazing piece of architectural art. The stained glass is amazing and photos do not do it justice!

11 September 2017

Westerly winds tried to push us back but we safely covered 22 km under blue skies to Mansilla de las Mulas. We can now see the mountains we hope to cross.
The distant mountains
Sunrise

10 September 2017

2 doors😊
When I left the flower garden at home I felt a little sad that I will miss the fall crocuses. Well lo and behold they are blooming all over el Camino!!
Leaving Sahagun.

9 September 2017

Sahagun
We made it to Sahagun today with the wind in our faces. Have just settled into an albergue and are relaxing. This completes the Camino de Madrid 😊
Reaching Sahagun
The landscape becomes a little rolly and we can see the next mountain range in the distance.
Vineyards
The door that challenged us this morning when we went to get our poles and shoes from the courtyard.

8 September 2017

A tribute to Spanish speaking countries
The wine press from days gone by!
Portions of this church date back to the 12th century. The brick portions are in the Mudejar or Moorish style. The central portion is Romanesque.
Ding dong bell pussy's in the...
Ah a place to hang laundry. The balcony above is part of our room for the night. How blessed we are!!
The albergue
The albergue has provided lovely blankets. Guess what the blankets are made of? Manchego cheese which is from Spain and made of goat's milk has become my Canadian favourite. But it doesn't match the sheep's milk cheese from this region!!
A first full course meal - stuffed peppers with bacalao fish!!
Santervas de Campos
The shepherd and his sheep. They know his voice😊
The mesata is beautiful open sky and fields of grain 🌾 and sunflowers 🌻
A reminder to remember that there are those of us who bloom late.
The sheep 🐑 watering trough.
Another sunrise to begin our path to Santervas de Compos 18 km. A break from the longer days.

7 September 2017

Thursday September 7 Madina de Rioseco to Villalobos de Campos 8 km along the Canal a Castillo y Leon and back over the mesas. 30+ km

6 September 2017

Madina de Rioseco We are spending the night here in an albergue cared for by nuns.
The moon goes down the sun comes up. We leave Penaflor de Hornija behind. Passing a pig 🐷 sty we climb back up onto the meseta. After 28 km of a windy trek we enter Medina de Rioseco. Interesting how Roman Roads pop to the surface. Hard on the feet!!

5 September 2017

These photos contain memories of a unique albergue experience!! Arturo (Arthur) was a type of Spanish Father Abraham who greeted and provided for many peregrinas and perigrinos. Although seeming somewhat over the top these photos tell a story.photos follow Sept 5 although taken on the 4th
September 5 photos Puente Duero to Penaflor de Hornija 30+ km😴. Slide for more photos

4 September 2017

Dinner is served. A typical Spanish tortilla. Nothing like the Mexican one. So good! Arturo made our dinner as the whole town was shut down for Fiesta!!
A wall map
Charlotte's clothes drying method. Towel wrapped and ready for the line!
A lovely surprise for perigrinas who change socks 3x a day. Complete with scrubbing board!
Puente Duero ahead!
A village passed through
Ah! A Spanish vineyard. Not only did we glean in a field of harvested carrots 🥕 BUT we gleaned in a harvested vineyard and I found a beautiful sweet bunch of grapes 🍇 that had been missed. Thanks mom for teaching us to get down low and look 👀 up when we pick😘
Alcazaren behind
A rusty marker.
The umbrella pines- beautiful in the morning light!

3 September 2017

And what's that at the top? That's it- another stork nest!!
The older section
Sections of this church date back to the 13th century!
The bodegas of Alcazaren. Basically root cellars or hobbit houses?
Leaving Villeguillo this morning and pressing ahead to Alcazaren.
This one is for you, Doug. I could hear you laughing 😂
Pilgrim life in the albergue

2 September 2017

Swallows nesting in the albergue eaves.
A home made scooter across from our albergue.
and beets
Ah, leeks! Cockaleekie soup anyone?
Leaving Ane and walking in the early morning toward Villeguillo. Surprised by the progressive agricultural techniques and again the expanse of the tapped pine forests.

1 September 2017

Mistletoe attaches itself to the pines and becomes parasitic living off the sap.
This pine is over 300yrs old!!
Sunflowers 🌻
A sheep herder
Rocky ground!
Leaving Ane before daylight wecaught a spectacular sunrise and didn't get lost.

31 August 2017

Ane's church and a grapevine
Reaching Ane. No facilities only an alberge and happened to catch a bread wagon. Bread cheese and sardines for supper!!
The pine goest. Trees are tapped for sap.
Early morning mist
Grain fields lie ahead
Thursday August 31 Leaving Segovia behind and pressing on to Ane.

30 August 2017

The ancient walls of Segovia
And castle
Local pottery
The decision was made to spend last night in Valsein after the 28 km covered yesterday. So this morning we leave Valsein behind and press onto Segovia, 13 km away. Into Segovia by lunchtime gives time to explore the ancient city.So we leave the mountains behind.
The old Jewish centre of Segovia
Segovia' Cathedral
Mm breakfast!!
The ancient Roman aqueduct of Segovia

29 August 2017

A first look at Segovia!!!
The bed of the old Roman road, begins a very uneven rocky and difficult climb but oh so beautiful. Unusual pine forest awaits us. These pines look half naked but the upper half shows a delicate layer of peeling bark.
Park visitors
The way lies ahead - crossing the Sierra Guardaramma today. Beautiful scenery lies ahead plus the promise of clear skies!
On our way!
Tuesday August 29-leaving our Navacerrada refuge awash!

28 August 2017

Proverbs 22:3 The prudent see danger and take refuge, but the simple keep going and pay the penalty.
We are approaching the end of day 4. We made it to Navacerada safely. This day will remain etched as one of amazing provision. We walked through the most extreme series of non stop thunderstorms I have ever seen - complete with torrential downpours which turned the mountain trails into raging torrents. The temperature plummeted with the hailstones. Probably a good 15-20 degrees! Mom's woolly gloves kept my hands from freezing until we got into Navacerriada where we discovered people frantically trying to stop water from running into their homes! One kind man with his English speaking daughter directed us to the first hotel where we took shelter! The remainder of the afternoon has been spent getting warm and drying out backpacks and some of the contents! We are 6 km short of our destination but under the circumstances achieved a lot!!!☝️
The blow drying of the money belt bills. You got it! Soaked right through!😳
A beautiful chapel in the mountain with water provision. The last photo before the RAGING tormentes. (Thunderstorms)
The lonesome Juniper
A slate roof
It is now the 28th and the start of Day 3. Just to add a note to yesterday... Walked through some beautiful rocky terrain getting closer to the mountains we will eventually cross. Lots of cattle and sheep. Katie would have loved the thunderstorm in Colmenar Viejo where we stopped for a snack. The storm passed, raining hard as we left town and could find shelter in doorways. Manzaneres el Real is a beautiful little town nestled amongst the rocky hillside. As there are no albergues here we have spent the night in a hostal, Hostal El Yelmo with all amenities😊 This morning we are awake to witness a beautiful thunderstorm. Will wait it out. 19 km goal today-lots of climbing!!

27 August 2017

First Spanish olives
Approaching our destination
Check out the sky!!
This bridge has a very old bed!
The path
Can you find the stork nests?
Mama and her new babe

26 August 2017

Leaving Madrid behind
Almonds
It's been a big day of finding our way through Madrid & countryside. We have made it to Tres Cantos walking 25 km. We are in the northern section. The albergue is far into the city centre and would require a lot of extra walking so we have opted to call it a day and are staying in a hostel like hotel. We are watered and showered and are going to go out to find food!! Finding the yellow arrows and markers is like a treasure or Easter Egg hunt!
Thinking of you Patrick. We walked by early this morning.

25 August 2017

Last night in Madrid
Today we found the La Iglesias de Santiago y San Juan, the start of the pilgrimage. Here we had our credentials stamped and met another peregrina. No photos allowed in this church. A tortilla here has nothing to do with cornmeal. The Spanish love chocolate and serve it morning noon and night.
Spanish ham anyone??
Los cabal Los y La Policia Española The Dark Arab stallion was magnificent!!!!
Walking in the light
Madrid Cathedral and the Palace

24 August 2017

Coming into the Plaza Mayor and the setting sun.
Our Madrid Hostel. A bit of luxury!
We have arrived safely in Spain! Another great flight - all according to plan. Can't wait to try the food🤗
A first look of Spain!!

23 August 2017

22 August 2017

Captain Cook's grave at St Peters Church in Richmond
Tuesday August 22. Day 2 in London Kew Gardens (London Botanical Gardens) For Joy - check out Marianne North's paintings For Heather- black walnut The Hive - for all the bee lovers

21 August 2017

Great breakfast at this Hostel!!
Just booked into The Click Hostel in London!