Italy · 4 Days · 24 Moments · May 2017

Foodie break to Bologna

13 May 2017

Stopping off for one last coffee and cake at Gamberino
The museum of the story of Bologna - an interactive experience that kept referring to interesting events and then not explaining them
On Saturdays Bologna makes its main streets pedestrian only, which is lovely for wandering through
We stopped off for a morning coffee and were serenaded by a harpist...
Our brilliant airbnb in north Bologna - amazing open plan multi level loft

12 May 2017

Dinner out at the Drogheria del Rosa - a former drug store converted into a restaurant with the walls covered with eclectic art. Organisation was haphazard at best but the food was excellent
Mid-afternoon break for a nap and to watch the epic rainstorm we were glad not to get caught in
Stopping off for lunch at Restaurant Al Sangiovese - green lasagne and polpetto for me
The pasta in Bologna has been uniformly excellent. This was an egg pasta with asparagus (in season here), cream and smoked ham. A wonderfully toothsome mouthful with just the right degree of "bite" to the pasta.
A morning visit to the museum of archeology with its rooms full of amphora

11 May 2017

Stopping off for an afternoon coffee in a lovely little square
The two towers of Bologna - one of which is leaning quite dramatically
A lovely little square in Piazzo Santo Stefano - a complex of seven chapels built around a holy spring that has be venerated since Roman times
Lunch in the Osteria dé Poeti - a very traditional restaurant where I had tortellini in broth, the regional special.
The anatomy room in the oldest university in the world
Starting out our walking tour in Bologna's central square - the floor inside this church was a giant solar clock.

10 May 2017

Via con me by Mercato Della Erbe for dinner. The third of three restaurants we tried and the only one who could squeeze us in. Having an unreserved table wasn't a bad sign though as the food was delicious.
The last stop on today's food tour of Bologna - a visit to a gelaterria. Apparently you should avoid gelato places that show the ice cream heaped up or have lurid colours as this shows they are more concerned with the customer than the product - gelaterria's which have the ice cream in sealed containers are the best. We tried three different flavours - the best was salted caramel which was sublime.
A selection of the wonderful, mostly very traditional, Bolognese food we've been eating. Detox will probably be necessary.
We ate lunch (bought from the markets) in Osteria De Sole which is the oldest osteria in Bologna. So old the tradition is that they don't serve food, only drinks, though in earlier centuries (it's been around since the 1400s) they did offer bread alongside the wine
Mercato di mezzo - the central market or market in the middle. The older of the two main markets, it's smaller and more expensive but still busy. Apparently a lot of the customers are older and have been buying food from here all their lives
Learning to make tortellini at a pasta shop in Bolognia - apparently a female dominated tradition, the shop is named after the word for a female pasta maker which has no male equivalent
The first of the markets we visited - Mercato Della Erbe which translates as vegetable market even though they also had meat, fish and cheese stalls.
Starting the food tour with an espresso made with artisanal eggnog. Something I never expected in Bologna