We have arrived to Rick home, unloaded and enjoyed a cup of tea, after dropping Mark off at his home. While unloading the car, I discover that Mark had dropped his phone in between the seats. Quite a few credit cards in the phone....time to go shopping and find out how high his limit is on the cards. I could due with some more sailing gear, camera kits, a new car, perhaps a boat, .....sounds like an early Christmas this year. Thanks Mark, or shall I call you Santa Claus. I leave the phone, less the cards at Ricks place, should you be interested in the location of it.
Back in Plymouth now. We arrived this morning about 02:30, tied up and in bed by 03:335, awake by 08:50, showered relocated Indigo to the fuel Bert and back to her berth, and now breakfast.
12 June 2018
We departed Kinsale on the11h at 08:15 to Plymouth. We just passed Lands End a few hours ago, and are now approaching Lizards, after crossing the Irish Sea.
10 June 2018
Dalton’s was quite quiet, thus we moved onto Kitty oh we Bar for a last pint before heading back to Indigo. We dined on Fish and Chips from a near by local, and we’re soon sleeping, for in the morning we would shove off to Plymouth.
I later found out that the lads (Jeff and Mark) had continued to party into the whee hours of the morning, polishing off the rum, what whiskey that we had left, prior to deciding to go skinny dipping into the Bay of Kinsale. Mark decided to do some recycling by attempting to sink Jeff during his back stroke across the bay with the empty bottles. After their short nap, they polished off three more Guinness pints each, until Mark gave in and ordered weak Gin and Tonic.
Four pubs later.....danger, danger,.....oh my....danger...slippery slope.
Kinsale, originally a medieval fishing port, is one of the most picturesque, popular and historic towns on the south west coast of Ireland. Kinsale is located in Cork county about 25km from Cork City and Cork International Airport. Kinsale is the gateway to scenic West Cork, to include the starting and finishing points of the Wild Atlantic Way, the 2,500km coastal journey from Kinsale, Co Cork to Inishowen, and Co Donegal.
I was captivated by its beautiful setting, long waterfront, harbour, narrow winding streets and brightly painted galleries, shops and houses. The impressive fortifications of Charles Fort and James Fort guard the narrow entrance from the sea, providing clues to its rich history. Kinsale is also internationally renowned for the number and quality of its restaurants, and is hailed as The Gourmet Capital of Ireland, with no shortage of small cafes, pubs and restaurants to suit everyones taste.
We arrived at Kinsale yesterday afternoon after the pleasant day motor-sailing, cleaned Indigo and did some laundry at the yacht club. We dined on board and enjoyed kidney steak pies, mix veggies and boiled potatoes with a glass or two of wine. This we later follow up with copious amounts of scotch, rum and singing. Mark was having a birthday and we soon found out that Jeff too was celebrating his. A neighbor on another yacht brought a bottle of rum, which was soon too demolished. Oooh my, what an evening. Later when I awoke, Indigo was in such a state, that I decided to trot off to the nearest establishment which was served a nutritional breakfast and left the other to sleep it off.
9 June 2018
The Old Head of Kinsale
Mark landed the first Mackerel of hopefully many to follow. After three more catches, I filleted the four Mackerel and commenced to prepare a mid day feast, consisting of the Mackerel pan fried, boiled new potatoes, accompanied by Julian cut carrots which were cooked in butter in brown sugar, and a tossed Salic with home made Italian vinaigrette.
We took a stroll around the village this morning prior to releasing the mooring buoy and slipping out of Glandore bay.
8 June 2018
Upon completing dinner, Rick wander back to Indigo to keep her company, while entrusting us with he credit card, so off we went to the next local establishment that would serve us. Not to worry Jo, we did not reach the limit on the card, at least we think not. Casey’s bar served Guinness and a variety of single malts. Shortly before midnight, we returned to Indigo.
Hidden garden of Eve, at the rear of Hayes’ Bar and restaurant. Rick and Mark ordered Fish Pie, accompanied by warm vegetables, while Jeff had the Carbonara with pasta noodles, and I ordered the Seafood pasta, which was sublime. This was followed up by another pint of beer, and ice creams for Jeff and Rick.
This evening we would dine at Hayes’ Bar, one of three locals in Glandore that serve food along with a view. Hayes’ Bar has established, under its’ new management, an enviable reputation for exceptional food at an affordable price. The new Hayes’ Bar serves the best of artisan food cooked with passion and flair. An extensive wine menu is available to accompany the excellent food and a range of craft beers is also stocked supporting Cork breweries where possible.
We are told that, with its blazing real fire and cosy ambiance, Hayes’ Bar is a delight on a winter’s evening. The sound of the ocean outside on a wild winter’s day only enhances the atmosphere.
Glandore, meaning harbour of the gold, is a village in County Cork. The village boast several pubs, and at time, traditional music can be enjoyed along with a pint of beer. It’s a popular holiday destination for Irish holiday makers, to include residence for homeowners such as Margaret Jay, a former leader of the House of Lords, and at one time prominent business-man Tony O'Reilly. The Church of Ireland, now restored is located at the entrance of the Rectory, originally a private home. The Rectory, originally called East View, along with Bearna Donn, originally called West View, & Stone Hall were built in the 19th Century by the Allen Family. Sailing is the main attraction to the village, however rowing and swimming are also a part of the community activities. In former years there used also be Irish dancing competitions in the village square. The Lar Casey Cup is awarded to the winning Dragon class yacht. Every 2 years (on odd years) the Glandore Classic Boat Regatta in July.
We arrived and moored up in Glandore bay at 15:40 on a buoy. The passage from Baltimore to Glandore was great although we motored a few hours, the time that we did sail was great, and I really thoroughly enjoyed my time on the helm. I noticed quite a few gulls, and other birds sitting on the water or hovering above, advised the guys to be on the look out for dolphins, and shortly after telling Rick it would wonderful if we spotted a whale during our passage, low and behold we spotted a Sei whale enjoying an afternoon sun or perhaps snack. It was great.
We departed (slipped) from Baltimore Harbour this morning at about 09:30, and dropped Mark off in the dingy to take some action shots of Indigo under sail as we sailed around him. Upon retrieving Mark, we departed the bay and set sail to Glandore, which wind out of the North, North, East, meaning that we would be tacking (zig zagging) the majority of the way there from Baltimore.
7 June 2018
Mary, whom works in the harbour masters office, recommended Casey’s of Baltimore Restaurant and Bar, which has built up a reputation over the years for superb fresh seafood from the Baltimore fleet and farm-fresh produce from the West Cork Area. Casey’s is re-known for using the freshest organic produce where ever possible in the preparation of their meals.
Jeff and Mark ordered Traditional Fish & Chips, I ordered grilled cod and Rick had Prime Roast Beef. The meals were truly culinary treats and a visual delights. Situated at the entrance of the village, surrounded by lush green lands, Casey's of Baltimore restaurant also boast a Cabin Bar which offers great creamy Guinness, or Murphy's and of Stout x South West, to include Sherkin Lass a Pale Ale, or Roaring Ruby Dark Red Ale from the West Cork Brewing Co., locally brewed beer to augment and ensure a memorable experience. The pub dates back to the 1800's and retains much of its original charm.
I meant to visit the village Castle, but unfortunately it was closed, thus I settled for the village church which was also closed. The view from above of the harbor was perhaps the best offering of the village. Well not much choice, thus time for a shot of single malt, hopefully Middleton, and if I am lucky, Barry’s batch.
It took all of 15 minutes to make it through the town. Today’s lunch on board was comprised of baked rolls, ham and cheddar cheese slices, pickles onions, and mixed tossed greens.
A stroll through the village square, containing bars, pubs, eateries, and the single grocery store.
6 June 2018
Another glorious sunset.
Upon completing our arrival tasks, mooring, preparing Indigo for the evening, and of course our arrival drink, we headed towards Bushes Bar, a family-run pub serving soup, sandwiches, salads all day and liquid refreshments. Unfortunately we could not shower prior to heading to the pub, attributed to the harbor master having departed his office for the evening. We later discovered that showers were available at the pub for fishermen and sailors, thus I guess they have had their fair share of mariners coming in a bit past due date.
We then scooted over to La Jolie Brise, a affordable family restaurant in the village square a few door door from Bushes. We all dined on delicious Italian homemade pizzas and homemade chips, versus the other offering on the menu, steaks, fresh seafood, after spying on our neighbors meal.
We are now 12 short nautical miles off the coast of Ireland, which is still hidden in the haze. Soon we shall come around Coney Island head and swing into Baltimore.
Baltimore is a historic village, surrounded by enchanting islands of Cape Clear, Sherkin and Heir, which lie near the very southern tip of Ireland, where the Wild Atlantic Way meets Carbery's Hundred Isles and the beautiful coast of West Cork. This area once used to be the haunt of pirates, but today is a centre for all kinds of waterborne activity. Baltimore boast a abundance of activities to enjoy including a varied calendar of festivals and events, to include some great places to eat and drink.
5 June 2018
And we continue...A few minutes later, after Marks and Jeff’s departure to the Chandlery, a young boy in a tender arrives in tow by another young boy in another tender. It appeared from what he was saying to aa acquaintance on shore, that the motor had come loose and decided to take a swim to the bottom of the sea while he was out. We laughed and continued to wait on the fellows to return from their shopping expedition. Upon their return, which was successful, we finally bid our farewells to St. Mary’s. Upon turning the corner, we hoist the main and continue motor sailing along our way to Ireland. The wether is turning, overcast to low hanging clouds, with moisture in the air. Breakfast is cereals for me and Rick, while Mark and Jeff take another attempt at the porridge (Oatmeal) cooked in milk and water.
We departed St. Mary’s today at about 10:00 AM after topping up with fuel and water. We initially attempted to top up our water tanks, but both pedestals with water spigots were not functioning, although they each happily took 1 of our pound coins. Stay tuned to this channel fit further up-dates. We then proceeded to the fueling point to top up our fuel tank, where upon arriving a gentleman promptly walks away. Oh no...it’s not our day, or perhaps he departed to fetch the gentleman whom actually would fuel us up. After waiting a bit, a gentleman re-appears, we top up and he kindly takes receipt of our trash and Indigos debit card. We sign and are off to the races. We returned to the watering point to patiently wait for the Harbor office to open, so that we might sort out some water for our tanks. While waiting, for the repair man to fix the water pedestal, Jeff and Mark trot off to the Chandlery in an attempt yo sort out our defective stern light. More in a bit
4 June 2018
Upon the end of our walk trough the garden, we reluctantly return to the ferry pickup point.
The gardens are a must see.
Building tall wind-breaks allowed Augustus Smith to channelled the weather up and over the network of walled enclosures. There are three carved terraces from the rocky, south facing slope, which face towards St Mary's. The hotter, drier terraces at the top of the garden suit South African and Australian plants, while those lower down provide the humidity that favours flora from New Zealand and South America.
The garden is also home to a collection of shipwrecked figureheads, which are displayed at the Valhalla Museum, a statue or Gaia, a bust of Thames, the Tresco children, among other art work displayed throughout the garden.
The world famous sub-tropical Tresco Abbey Garden, described as a perennial Kew without the glass, shrugs off salt spray and Atlantic gales to host myriad exotic plants, many of which would stand no chance of survival even on the Cornish mainland. At the winter solstice, there are still more than 300 plants with blooms. Tresco Abbey Garden boast is home to more than 20,000 species of plants from 80 countries, ranging from Brazil to New Zealand and Burma to South Africa.
The Gardens Were established during the 19th Century by Augustus Smith, originally as a private garden within the grounds of the home that he designed and built. The Benedictine Abbey founded in 964 AD, although the majority of what remains today comes from the Priory of St Nicholas founded by monks from Tavistock Abbey in 1114, has been converted into luxury time shares. There were hardly any trees on the island and the gorse did not provide enough protection so Augustus planted shelter-belts. The first were mainl
We had lunch at Ruin Beach Café, open all day, which serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. The wood-fired oven that produces delicious pizzas, also roasts succulent beef, fresh fish, as well as baking the bread, is at the heart of the restaurant. Island wood fuels the fire and brings to life a real flavor of Mediterranean cooking.
We joined two elderly ladies at a table in on the terrace when we arrived at the Ruin Cafe for lunch, with Jeff and I ordering Margherita pizza, while Rick and a Mark ordered Bass fish. We drank beer and recounted our morning travels. The food was scrumptious.
The café derives its’ name from the ruined smuggler’s cottage incorporated into its’ terrace. The smuggler’s cottage, remained uninhabited since the late-nineteenth century, when there was a family of 12 living there in poverty. Their shared sleeping quarters consisted of a low loft in the roof space.
We then proceeded to the famous Tresco gardens.
King Charles's Castle, a ruined artillery fort, also overlooks New Grimsby harbour on the island of Tresco. Construction began during 1548 and was completed during 1551. The castle was built to protect the islands from French attack, and would have held a battery of guns and an accompanying garrison, designed to prevent enemy vessels from entering the harbour. The castle, constructed from granite stone, gun battery at the front, and dining room, kitchen and living accommodation at the rear, boasted additional defensive earthwork that was constructed around it during the 17th century. The design of the castle was quite unusual for the period, and similar designs are only seen elsewhere in blockhouses along the River Thames.
Cromwell's Castle, an artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour is a tall, circular gun tower, with an adjacent gun platform, that was designed to prevent enemy naval vessels from entering the harbour. The castle tower built in two phases, was started by Sir Robert Blake between 1651 and 1652 in the aftermath of the Parliamentary invasion of the islands at the end of the English Civil War, and completed by Master Gunner Abraham Tovey whom added the gun platform during the War of Jenkins' Ear around 1739. The tower fell into disuse soon afterwards, and beginning in the 21st century to be managed by English Heritage and receive visitors.
The original name for the island was the Cornish Ryn Tewyn meaning promontory of sand-dunes. The island was named as Trescaw in an 1814 publication. Tresco is administered for the Crown by the Duchy of Cornwall and leased to the Dorrien-Smith estate, which runs it as a timeshare business. Dorrien-Smith held the position of Lord Proprietors of the Scilly Islands between 1834 and 1920.
In 2007 a rebuild of the Abbey Farm/Shed area was completed, while previously the area served the RNAS Tresco, a seaplane base during the First World War. The development included rental cottages, a swimming pool and spa and the Flying Boat Bar & Bistro.
In 2012 the Island Hotel was closed, and parts of the complex were converted into luxury holiday cottages, while other parts of the hotel were demolished with new cottages built in its place. The Sea Garden Cottages now offer flexible accommodation with an on-site spa and tennis court.
This morning we woke about 07:30 to commence our day, which would see us take a ferry from St. Marie’s to Tresco, a near by Island in the Scilly Isles. On the pier I spotted this beautiful blue Austin A30, which I would love to take home with me, but unfortunately the vehicle would not fit on Indigo, nor would Indigo be pleased to have it on board. The crossing took 20 minutes, upon which we headed toward New Gimsby, a new town on Tresco, in hopes of finding a 12VDC light bulb for our stern light fixture, which had blown its bulb during our crossing. The walk was wonderful in he morning sun, but unfortunately we had no luck with finding a replacement, but we did feast on some ice cream cups.
Tresco is the second largest island in the Isles of Scilly, with a land mass of 297 hectares, measuring about 3.5 kilometres by 1.75 kilometers. King Henry I gave it to Tavistock Abbey, which established a priory on Tresco, which was abolished during the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
3 June 2018
Arriving to the Scilly Isles.
2 June 2018
1 June 2018
Our crew for this passage to the Scilly Isles, which we shall make landfall during the early hours of tomorrow, after departing from Plymouth about 12:15!in the afternoon. We shall anchor for a day prior to proceeding to the southwestern coast of Southern Ireland.
The morning seems promising after the evening rain. The sun is slowly drying the dampness around the marina, which should facilitate boat owner working on various external projects around their vessels.
31 May 2018
This evening I dinned in the Bridge, the restaurant/bar located on the marina premises. I dinned on their well done beef, cheddar, hamburger which was less than spectacular. Their only saving grace was that they had my favorite wine from
Portugal Churchill’s Estate Douro 2013. Actually, the wine list stated 2012, which in my humble opinion was their best year. What was deliver was a 2013, not quite up to the body of 2012, but acceptable. For the first time I sat in the upper section which offer a spectacular view of the marina and bay.
The day started wet, migrated to sunshine, and returned to drizzling rain, which is far better than the midlands which are suffering from flash floods cause by the down poor they received today.
Well, after retrieving, unpacking and cleaning the dingy, which was stored snuggly in Indigo’s stern lazarrete, I commenced the inflation process. An Inflatable dingy usually is comprised of three separate inflatable chambers. I started with inflating the forward chamber, followed by the port chamber, and finally the starboard chamber, only to find that the bow or forward chamber was loosing pressure. After re-inflating it, I search for the culprit spot which was loosing the air. It turned out to be the air valve. This brought on an unexpected dilemma which would have to be addressed in the morning after some research and consultation with Rick.
30 May 2018
In the first photo, Indigo sits patiently in her berth waiting to be freed of her constrains. Her galley is equipped with all required items to maintain Mariners well fed, her head (restroom) host a sea toilet, shower stall, sink and slant mirror to allow comfortable shaving. Indigo’s gangway offers safe egret and ingress grips from top to bottom, which come in handy when rough seas are encountered. The saloon boast long and comfortable port and starboard settees that double as passage bunks. The Nav station is smartly equipped with comms, fuse banks, nav equipment and charts stowed in the desk. Her forward cabin contains a large V-bunk suitable for two single or a double bunk, storage lockers beneath the berth and standing locker storage to the starboard, and drawers to the port. The skipper cabin, toward the stern of Indigo is spacious, offering a double bunk, settee and plenary of storage. Indigo’s engine rest below the gangway, between the Galley and the head.
Indigo carries plenty of canvas which are suited for the passages we have made thus far, to include her batten main sail which rest when not hoisted in the lazy jacks, het large Genoa on roller furling, and a cruising chute that we have on occasion used when in light to breezy wind conditions. Her helm position boast a compass and modern Raymarine plotter equipped with the latest charts and AIS. Rick maintain Indigo is immaculate condition to include her safety equipment, i.e. life raft, EPIRB, Flares, Dan Buoy, Life Ring and Horse Shoe flotation, to include life vest. Yes, Indigo is well equipped for inshore, coastal and offshore passages. Indigo has safely taken me from Madeira to the Azores and then onward to the U.K., to includes cruising up and down the western coast of the U.K.m(England and Scotland) and the eastern coasts of Northern and Southern Ireland. This year, she carries us back to Southern Ireland southwestern coast, weather permitting, and onward to Scilly Isles.
29 May 2018
Arrived to Plymouth Yacht Haven, late afternoon yesterday, and boarded Indigo a 37.5 foot CC Moody sailing yacht which I was on last summer cruising around the Uk. The marina is large and modern. I quickly fell asleep and did not awake until midday today. I was really tired. Indigo, having come ashore for her winter cleaning and TLC, looks really nice. It’s been overcast and drizzling, thus hid out in the Bridge, for lunch and some admin. The marina is quiet today, now that most owners and weekend visitors have return to their homes to return to their places of employment, after the long weekend bank holiday. Tomorrow I will check out the dingy’s serviceability, for we will need it to go ashore at the Scilly Isle during our return from Southern Ireland.
28 May 2018
Train to Plymouth and arrival. Train travel is actually quite pleasant in the UK. May have to plan a trip later in the future around the UK by train and enjoy the country side. I wonder if the have sleeper cars? Need to check into that, and of course the ability to hop on and off at various places in route that may arouse my interest.
Onwards to Exeter now for my extra connection to Plymouth. Hopefully I will not fall a sleep again. Thus my journey has increased from one stop to three stops because of the short nap. It’s a good thing I am not in a hurry.
Waiting for my train connecting from Salisbury to Plymouth, only because I dowsed off and had to back track a station. This station was pretty empty, meaning most other had caught earlier trains....I hope their are more coming.
27 May 2018
We caught the ferry across the bay from Gunwharf Quay to dined in the Castle Tavern, where enjoyed a Sunday roast meal. What I order, a mix plater was sufficient to feed an army, but I did my best to level the mound presented on the plate. I have yet to understand why Yorkshire Pudding is called pudding when in fact it is more pastry and anything. Perhaps one day this puzzle shall too be explained. We followed the meal with a visit to Trinity’s, an old lightship, now restaurant & bar, for a few ales, gin and tonics and a spectacular view of Gunwharf Quay across the bay. Highly recommended as a must in a visit to Portsmouth.
Our arrival to Gunwarf Quay Marina, in the wee hours of the morning cut short our pub hours. We motored the majority way back from Norway, at times through thick fog, in pretty much record time, averaging 9 NMs per hour. The group commence to drift their separate ways the following afternoon. Four left on board for the evening.
26 May 2018
We pass several offshore wind farms, which we had to keep an keen eye out for, besides the occasional lobster pot ( a floating ball, with or without flag), with a long strong line to the bottom of the ocean where it was tied to the trap, drawing it crabs, lobster or squid, dependent of bait, depth and area the trap was later in.
Some shots of the vessel, Nav Station, Saloon, Galley, forward hatch, one of our heads, sail locker, rear quarter area. The sailing yacht has 18 berths spilt in between 6 cabins, two in the rear, two forward of those in the rear and two just forward of the saloon and galley. Every hour, we make a log entree, we check the bilges for water (which most open water vessel will have from mask seepage, shaft rotation, or ingress from the main hatch), the day tank residing higher than the engine which holds the fuels required to operate the engine for a few hours which is filled by manually pumping diesel from the main tanks into it, thus eliminating the need for an expensive uplift pump on the engine to perform the task. The log entree, contains the current compass course, course over ground, NMs completed during the previous hour, Lat, Long, relevant note, motoring, motor sailing, sailing, amount of canvas up, and the bilge and day tank checks.
The view forward and to the stern from the snake pit. Below deck, one finds the engine compartment which was a blessing in disguise for those on the inner bunks, whom when motoring or shortly after the motor was shut off enjoyed from the warm radiated through the walls. Our passage up to Norway was cold, with force 6-7 winds, and moderate to heavy seas. Many got sick. Even I, season open water crosser had a short spontaneous bout, which lasted a minute or so, but was great once it was over. Other suffered far worse, and days later after being provided Ginger Biscuits began to fill better. Ginger biscuits, I am not sure what it is about them, but the quickly cure the ailment.
The snake pit. Most lines from the sails enter here for hoisting or securing, while the sheet lines which are used for adjusting sails in or out continue back to the cockpit. It’s a right mess when adjusting multiple sails. Once one becomes accustomed to the layout it becomes second nature, while hoisting the heavy canvass up the main is quite another story. The sails are humongous, thus equate that with heavy, no I mean really heavy, and I am advised that theses are lighter than cheaper versions available. I do hope that I never have to encounter the cheaper heavier version, for i will seriously cry uncle, or claim some spontaneous illness to get me out of sweating that canvas up.
22 May 2018
Tau our next destination, a village in Strand municipality in Rogaland county, Norway, lies approximate 20 NMs from Stavanger. The villagRogalande, located on the shore of the Horgefjorden, covers approximately 2.11-square-kilometre, boasred a population in 2015 of 3,158.
The village lies along the Norwegian National Road 13 highway, southwest of the small villages of Fiskå and Holta and northwest of the town of Jørpeland. A ferry service runs from Tau to the city of Stavanger, across the fjord, but the service is scheduled to end in 2019 when the new Ryfast tunnel opens for use. The village’s name is believed to of originated from the Old Norse word taufr which means 'witchcraft', since there was an ancient sacrificial field here in the Iron age.
Challenger 2, resting along its berth. Lovely street art work found along the shore road. The look on the little girls face, next Ge o a spill can of paint, is just adorable.
21 May 2018
Attributed to the Fjord’s inhospitable and mountainous terrain, the area is only lightly populated and only has two villages on its length - Forsand and Lysebotn, located at opposite ends of the fjord. There is a small farming area on the north shore of the fjord, about halfway between the two ends. That farm area is accessible by road from the village of Årdal over the mountains to the north. There are a few other very small, scattered settlements along the fjord, but those are only accessible by boat along the fjord. There are no roads along the fjord since the sides of the fjord are too steep for roads.
20 May 2018
The fjord, carved by the action of glaciers in the ice ages, was flooded by the sea when the later glaciers retreated. End to end, the fjord measures 42 kilometers with rocky walls falling nearly vertically over 1,000 meters into the water. Not only is the fjord long and narrow, in places it is as deep as the mountains are high. Starting at a depth of only 13 meters deep where it meets the sea near Forsand village, the Lysefjord then heads inland and drops to a depth of over 400 meters below the Preikestolen.
Lysefjord, located in the Ryfylke area in southwestern Norway, 42 kilometer long, lies in Forsand municipality in Rogaland county, about 25 kilometers east of Stavanger. Lysefjord means light fjord, yet folk loud has it derived from the lightly colored granite rock which protrudes along both sides. It’s particularly well known for the huge Preikestolen cliff overlooking the fjord, a major tourist destination for the region. Lysebotn, a fairly isolated village, lies at the eastern end of the fjord and the villages of Forsand and Oanes both lie at the western end.
The following morning we departed for our main destination, Lysefjord. Life aboard Challenger 2 during passages was pretty routine. The watches were split into two shift.
0700-1300 day shift. Manned the vessel, General and galley cleaning from breakfast, made lunch
1301-1900 afternoon shift, manned the vessel, General and galley cleaning from lunch, made dinner
1900-2300 evening shift, manned the vessel, cleaned the galley, prepared hot water for tea at shift change
2301-0300 night (known as graveyard) shift, manned the vessel, prepared hot water for tea at shift change
0301-0700 morning shift. Manned the vessel, made breakfast
19 May 2018
My stroll back to Challenger 2, revealed more of Stavanger’s Architecture and heritage, to include slow evolving art.
I literally ran into this lovely cafe called Back Stage located in the Old Film theater, which as you know I am a fan of green teas, served a lovely crisp sweat green tea, which was accompanied by a scrumptious warm fluffy cinnamon, poppy seed muffin. This topped my afternoon off.
I have often wonder what life in this hillside villages would of been like, before cobble stone road and proper drainage. Dashing from window to window to avoid the inevitable splash of waste pans flying down from the the windows above. It give a new definition to moon wash, if you fallow my train of thought.
The marina facilities were respectable, offering three individual shower stalls, toilets and a laundry facility. They were clean and the water hot, which was a welcome pleasure after our chilly crossing.
I decided to dive into XO Steakhouse, at Skagerrak 10, for a light bite of lunch consisting of a 100% local Agnus beef cheddar burger on a bed of lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers, less the bun which hit the spot. The home fries, crispy and done to perfection, were accompanied but a tomato jalapeño mayo sauce which completed the first meal on shore after 5 days. Of course, this was accompanied by a pint or two of ale.
As I continued my afternoon stroll through Stavanger, I came across Fargegarten, a very colorful street, which is a must see, lined with old wooden houses painted in bright colors, boasting more cafes, hairdressers and small boutiques to satisfy your immediate needs.
Stavanger and it’s immediate surrounding offer something to satisfies everyone’s wants and desires, be it food, drink, shopping, walks, history, art, or nature...it’s all available at you finger tips.
Stavanger, Norway, is a easy old fashioned town with cobble stone roads. It boast a Cathedral is nearly 900 year old and colorful streets and quaint store fronts. Cruise liners dock in the middle of town, thus adding to its easy of reach, yet at times, high influx of tourist.
We moored smack in the middle of down town, which even at 03:00 AM was alive and hopping, with people moving from establishment to establishment.
Stavanger is the oil capital of Norway, and gateway to fjords, Pulpit Rock, one of the most popular attractions, and Kjerag. I have been informed that nearly a quarter of a million people hike to through these cliffs annually, which stand nearly 600 meters above the sea level.
Stavanger itself is a charming old city, consisting mainly of small, white wooden houses, which are visible throughout, although there is a modernization creeping into the the town, consisting of trending restaurants, galleries, shops and places for evening entertainment. Don’t forget to t
We arrived in Stavangen this morning at 03:15, and tied up for the day. We shall depart tomorrow morning.
17 May 2018
Shane Cole, principal instructor at Go-and-Sail in Ayamonte, Spain, god bless his heart, showed more patience with students than I have seen before during most of my career. His sailing school takes on no more that three students at a time per vessel, to ensure no one goes for not wanting on the dissemination and understanding of knowledge imparted to them. Patience is a virtue that not many acquire, especially in today’s fast pace world, where instant gratification from responses or purchases is the expected norm. This is a virtue of any skipper, a necessity to maintain command and control of any situation, be it normal or an emergency.
During our passage, we spotted two sperm whales, I believe, breaching during the wee early hours of the morning, feeding on what was available, we presume mackerel or cuddle fish. Sperm whales are known to eat giant and colossal squid, octopus, cephalopods, cuddle fish and a variety of other fish. Their primary diet consists mainly of squid.
Received an email that my bag was finally delivered to the Tallships office.
Another important fact to understand is that if you join a cruise with a loose itinerary, it means just that, you will get there when you get there for we can not control the winds nor the currents, and when sailing an open ended cruise it’s not getting to the destination on a specific date and time that counts, but the quality time spent getting there, be it reading, chatting, meditating, relaxing, or just chilling in quiet anchorage coves or picturesque harbors. Just give yourself into the experience and enjoy it.
16 May 2018
An instructor once passed onto me the best lesson I have ever learn in my years of sailing, “If what you are doing seems hard to perform, you are doing it wrong!” Penny Whiting owner of Penny Whiting Sailing School, Auchland, New Zealand. There is absolutely nothing hard in or about sailing, which means that it does not matter if you are a muscle bound individual (man or woman) or thin and scrawny, so long as you perform the task correctly, with the correct tools and mechanism available on the sailing vessel, it is achievable.
Most importantly, there are multiple ways to coil up excess lines, i.e. figure eight loops, elephant ears, life line coils loops, hanging coil loops, etc, etc., to keep lines tidy on board, or perform other task required on the vessel, but what really matter is not to get hung up on any single method, so long as the they perform the required function take note of it and move on with the task at hand as required.
We had a rough passage across the North Sea, which was not fun to most but part of the experience. On a sailing yacht, it doesn’t matter if you attended an Ivy League institution or come from a humble background without finishing primary school, and desire to become an able body sailor. The vessel will adopt you whether you are packing a six figure bank account (usually preferred by today’s skippers) or just a few bills in your pocket, so long as you demonstrate the aptitude and willingness to perform the assigned tasks.
The pessimist will complain about the wind; there’s too much or too little to sail; while the optimist expects the wind to change, to much less than currently faced, or much more; while realist will trim or changes the sails to suit the situation and gets on with it, which is what is required on any sailing vessel, be it sailing in sunny, overcast, cold, or wet conditions.
After arriving at Gunwharf Quays Marina which was constructed at the base of Gunwharf Quay, an outlet retail destination with 90 outlet stores and 30 restaurants, pubs and cafés located in Portsmouth, UK, I settled into a top bunk just above the engine compared, which I would later be great full for. Gunwharf Quay, designed and constructed during the early 21st century on the site of what had once been HM Gunwharf, Portsmouth, one of several such facilities that were established around Britain Empire by the Board of Ordnance, where cannons, ammunition and other armaments were stored, repaired and serviced ready for use on land or at sea, is bustling with people. The landmark Spinnaker Tower, which also stands on the site, was opened a few years later. Departed to Norway on Monday morning about 10:30. Shortly after departure, I receive an email from Flybe that they had found my bag and were ready to deliver it.
12 May 2018
I arrived on this puddle jumper with my backpack. Unfortunately my seabag missed the connection. If the bag cannot be found and delivered before 12 noon tomorrow, I will need to do some shopping.
The city of Portsmouth, my destination, is a vibrant waterfront location packed, from the pomp and ceremony of U.K. proud naval and maritime heritage, to towering world-class visitor attractions, museums and galleries, unique shopping destinations, fantastic eateries, and miles and miles of beautiful waterfront shoreline. Portsmouth is situated on the south central coast of England, is the perfect destination for a short break by the sea. With numerous things to nightlifedo in Portsmouth, from museums, art galleries, music venues, cathedrals, nightlife, festivals, a diverse literary heritage and numerous of events throughout the year.
On the literary stage, Portsmouth being the birthplace of Charles Dickens, has also been home to Arthur Conan Doyle and Rudyard Kipling lifetimes.