Portugal · 6 Days · 33 Moments · June 2017

Emily's tour through Portugal

22 June 2017

Thanks to our food guide's recommendation in Lisbon we enjoyed a port tasting at Ramos Pinto. Right below the tram and perfectly delicious.
After waking across the bride we took the tram down to the port wine cellars. A lovely day with the sun out!
Once back in the city center we made our way to Cafe Santiago for a Francesinha. Talk about your ultimate hangover food. Thank goodness they made me a vegetarian one! Glad to have tried it, but once was enough for me. Still, don't miss this when in Porto. Afterwards we spent some time shoe shopping and walking through the big Mercado. It will be closed tomorrow for renovation so we just got there in time. As we walked to the Luis bridge, we noticed a craft beer shop. Super cute and I should have just stayed right there and taken the tram across. Being that high was not my cup of tea.
Ride the number 1 tram to the beach, a perfect 20 minute ride :)

21 June 2017

We got reservations at Ode Porto Wine House and it was the best meal we have had all trip. Three courses of local delights. The slow food movement is their mantra here and we had reservations at 8, leaving at around 10:15. Only pictured are the main courses but everything else was divine. A must if you are here in Porto! Check out the prettiest mushroom cake you might ever see.
Just a few more pictures around our AirBNB. We are in a great location!
Walking around popping into shops, grabbing cocktails and wine to go, and taking advantage of the urban market. All things missed in Doha. Can't get enough of the tiles covered buildings and adorable alleyways.
Just a quick bite close to the river before we set off and explore! Recommended by some Aussie friends we met at our Quinta. Terreior did not disappoint.
One of the best AirBNB check ins with Maria in her adorable apartment. She sat down and gave us great recs on a map and we talked to her for awhile. She is wonderful!
Took the train from Douro Valley to Porto, this time stopping for two short days. The breeze is welcoming and the temperature is great. Look at these city streets!

20 June 2017

Last dip in the pool before we enjoy this sunset 🌅
Wine tasting this afternoon at our wine estate Quinta Nova did not disappoint. All of the wines here have been excellent but the reserve and premium tastings were the way to go. Love the idea of staying at an estate like this and getting to know their wines over a few days. Not to mention the yummy meals. Would highly recommend this property and other Quinta experiences to anyone traveling in Portugal.
Took the regional train one stop/10 minutes to Pinhão. There we booked a 2 hour river cruise. So relaxing and beautiful to see all of the terraced quintas (vineyards).

19 June 2017

Just a few fun pics of the dinner courses and chef's wine pairings.
Just finished our wine tour as part of our stay here at Quinta Nova. Top three things we learned: 1. The Portuguese have created a new machine to mimic stomping grapes and have just sold one to the US 2. Hungary supplies oak barrels as well and they are made from a very slow growing tree 3. The Douro Valley was not a table wine growing region until about 20 years ago
Arrived at our wine estates Quinta Nova. Not too shabby at all! 🍷

18 June 2017

Walked to dinner right next to the castle. We are at Cruzes Credo, which had a very interesting veggie burger with a tortilla wrap as a bun. (not pictured)
After a day of wine tasting let's check out some craft beers at Duque, not too far away from our flat in Bairro Alto.
Traditionally Ginjinha served with cherries - sure we'll take a pick me up and then boarded the Elavador Gloria to make it up the hill to our place.
Final and last stop was at By the Wine to have some Moscatel (similar to Vin Santo). We tasted some local sheep's cheese and two different olive oils with Flor de Sal and a homemade tomato paste. Oh, and how could I forget the sourdough bread. It was an all around south of Portugal spread!
The tour kept on going as we passed the oldest operating bookstore in Europe to enjoy Lisbon's quintessential custard pastry = pastel de nata. We learned that traditionally, most pastries were made from egg yolks due to the nuns using the whites to 'starch' their habits. We stopped by the one and only Manteigaria to watch the chefs at work and enjoy a café with our treat.
Tucked among the stairs in Chiado is Fábulas wine bar, where small plates (petiscos) of shrimp, salt cod salad, octopus salad, local cheese, olive tapenade, and chick pea purée were paired with an amazingly citrus white wine. The wine and cheese were from Pico, an island two hours to the west of Portugal with their highest mountain. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
On to the opera house to eat at Cafe Lisboa, under Michelin chef José Avillez's care. Others had a beef filled pastry with a side of sausage pâté and fava beans. I was brave and had octopus tartar. Pretty good and very fresh but still wouldn't order again. Sorry Mr. Octopus.
Next stop in the former red light district was Sol Pesca, featured on Anthony Bourdain's trip, to try some traditional canned fish. Sardines and tuna. Yes I did take one bite and that was all I needed. Stuck to the wine. :). Then a quick shortcut through and old brothel turned club to head into the Chiado neighborhood.
Culinary Backstreets tour started off at the Mercado Ribeira with a café and traditional Portuguese pastries. Cheese, ham, and a sponge cake were gathered to take outside for a little picnic. Then we tried Ginjinha (traditional cherry liquor) to at St. Paul's square, for a warm but engaging picnic. All six of us on the tour were connected to the US. We learned this sponge cake was a Japanese/Portuguese recipe. Most of the cuisine here is a mixture of great things around the world. Has something to do with a former empire...

17 June 2017

Just exploring the streets of Bairro Alto. Was super excited to visit The Park bar - on top of a parking garage. Cool concept but for cooler weather. It was too crowded and warm for ultimate enjoyment. Finding a good place to eat in this hood is tough on a Saturday night. Got turned away from some awesome places but ended up at this delicious Italian place called Esperança. Amazing burrata and pasta was had by us both.
Time Out Market has food stalls all around. Try a little or try a lot. Perfect place to go, close to the water. Again super crowded and so many options to choose from. Best to do a lap around the place before settling in on a food choice. Tip: try the Porto Tonico cocktail at the TO bar!
Alfalmo -lots of wandering around and probably would have been better to do a little later in the day. Not too many places were open and it was soooo hot! Heat waves in Portugal when we are here. Shocker! 🤔
Stopped for a quick breakfast up the hill on the way to Alfama. They have take away Sangria for 3€ 🙌🏽
No°28 Tram time - hint don't miss your stop at the top of the hill. Second hint- you probably aren't going to catch an open tram at the bottom of a large hill...they don't stop if they are full. Third hint-don't plan on using this tram for transit. It is 99% sightseeing as people get on at the initial stop and stay on for the whole loop.

16 June 2017

First night's dinner at the acclaimed Grapes & Bites. Well worth it as we tried some Portuguese cheese and wine. Also the guitarist was rocking some great high school tunes all night. Check out the cute shop across the street, Cobalto, if you are looking for fun ceramic sardines.
It is soooo cute! Loved the welcome gifts of Port and pastel de nata.
Headed to our AirBNB in Bairro Alto